Home Stay (Day 2 Continued!)

After the DMZ (and a delicious lunch of bulgogi and japchae) we drove into Seoul. It is a huge city. As I mentioned before, it is a unique mixture of farm land (leading into the city), sky scrapers, and traditional buildings. We did not ultimately get to spend much time in Seoul, so these brief glimpses were really my only impressions of the city.

The first home stay group got off the bus. The second group, which I was part of, drove to Gyeonbokgung (Gyeonbok Palace). It was here that we met our home stay family.

We were assigned to a home stay family in groups. The groups typically consisted of two educators or two family members, along with one of the Korean American youths who were on the trip (who could speak Korean!). Although I was excited about this part of the trip, as I think back on it, I was also pretty nervous! I really did not know what to expect.

The family I was placed with actually lived outside of Seoul, in Ilsan. Ilsan is northwest of Seoul. Its claim to fame is that it has the largest artificial lake in Asia. Unfortunately, it was POURING rain and we did not get to see it.

We stuffed our luggage into their car and drove to their apartment. This family is connected with InKAS, and has been hosting Sejong visitors for many years. Mr. Kim is a psychologists - such a perfect fit! He focuses mostly on statistics, researching, and teaching. A recent project he did was to compile the normative data for a vocational measure. In addition, he runs an on-line Korean language learning program and has taught Korean language through a program at Yongsei University. Mrs. Lee focuses on her children and an organic farming program the family has. Most people in the area have farming plots located outside of the city to grow their own vegetables. Their plot is larger than most families. They have a program to teach others about farming methods. I also gathered that they sell some of their extra produce. The two daughters are students in neighborhood schools. They were pretty shy with us. The older daughter was in the midst of exams and had spent most of the day taking her Japanese language exam.

They took us to visit a children's library near their house. I am not sure I fully understand the program, but I think it was a library aimed at providing impoverished children with access to books and learning programs.

We then went to dinner. I have never seen so much food! It was shabu-shabu, which is something that was new to me. There was a pot of boiling broth on the table. As we ate, we added thinly sliced beef and vegetables to the pot. It was delicious!

We came back and home and we were offered more food! We exchanged gifts. I had brought the family a picture album of my kids and my family. I brought the girls' Fairport nylon backpacks with cute office supplies.

That night we slept in the traditional Korean style - on thick blankets on the floor. Either it was not too bad or I was too tired to feel uncomfortable, but I slept fine! We had a traditional Korean breakfast in the morning of rice and vegetables (many grown in their own garden!). We had the most delicious pear/cucumber cold soup I ever had. I am going to try to make it at home soon.

We said our goodbyes and the luggage went back into the car. Mr. Kim dropped us off at Ewha University (which I will talk about in the next post!). Some people on the trip stayed with their families for two nights, but we only stayed one night. Ilsan is too far from the airport that we needed to be at early in the morning for our flight to JeJu Island. We stayed our second night at a hotel near the airport.

DMZ (Day 2)

After breakfast at the camp we got on the tour bus. Over the course of the trip we spent a lot of time traveling on the bus. Usually this time between locations was a good thing. It was a chance to rest a little, cool off, and reflect on what we had just seen.

Our tour guide for the DMZ visit was excellent. I am not very well read or knowledgeable about the conflict between North Korea and South Korea. Pete and I have watched several documentaries on North Korea and the oppression there. It is a very sad situation. Aside from my TV viewing, I knew little about the situation.

Our guide did an excellent job of explaining the progress of the war, the geographical features of the militarized zone and the demilitarized zone, the formation of the tunnels, the Sunshine Policy, and the political changes over the years. Although a cease fire was declared (and the nation was divided to provide a "buffer zone"), the Korean War never officially ended with a peace treaty. The nations are still considered to be at war with each other.

We stopped at one location and saw some monuments, the Peace Bell, and a wall of ribbons. The ribbons had names of family members and messages of hope & peace written on them. As I will learn throughout the trip, the idea of leaving written messages to loved ones and displaying them in public is a common practice throughout Korea. At many different points along the trip there was opportunities to do this. At this stop we walked through a small museum and saw a short video about the DMZ.

We got back on the bus and went to the Third Tunnel. The story of the tunnels is fascinating. It is estimated that the North Koreans may have started building upwards of 20 underground tunnels into South Korea. To date only 4 have been discovered. In the 1970's the South got information on the approximate location of several of these tunnels. In order to locate them they installed a series of water pipes into the ground in areas they suspected tunnels were being built. As the tunnels progressed, the water pipes drained into the newly built tunnels and were discovered. The Third Tunnel was discovered in 1978.

We hiked into the tunnel. Pictures were not allowed. It was a fairly steep incline deep into the earth. At the end we were approximately 170 meters from the North Korean border (kind of mind blowing!). The tunnel was short and we wore hard hats to protect our heads. At the end I drank from the DMZ spring. The walls were painted with charcoal, because at one point North Korea tried to justify the existence of the tunnels as coal mining tunnels.

We then traveled to another observation area along the DMZ. Here we could see across into North Korea. You can tell which area is North Korea, because there are no trees. North Koreans do not have energy sources for heating like the South does (natural resources, nuclear power plants). The only way to heat their homes is with fire wood, so all the trees have been harvested. You could only take pictures from behind a certain boundary line and the area was patrolled by the military.

Our last stop in the this area was Dorasan Station. This place was a mixture of both hope and sadness. It is a train station what was built to connect South Korea and North Korea. During the Sunshine period, there was great hope of reconciliation. These hopes have deteriorated as different political parties and leaders have come into power. It is an empty station right now, not functional, but remains as a symbol of what the future might hold.

Recently the media has been filled with bold, threatening statements that the North has made against the South and other democratic countries. I remember in 2010 there was an incident at sea in which it was suspected that North Koreans bombed a South Korean vessel. At the time we were waiting for Faith to come home. I was crazy with fear and worry. When I told many people about my trip, the first reaction they often had was concern regarding safety and the current political climate.

The concept of war and violence being so close to us is foreign to Americans. But to Koreans, most have lived in the midst of this conflict for most of their lives. As we traveled about I was frequently struck by the repeated messages of hope, unification, and peace. It seems to permeate their daily lives and is shaped by the constant reminders of the fact that they are a divided nation.

The Flight and Arriving in Korea for the First Time

On July 4, 2013 I set off on one of the most amazing adventures of my life. Many adoptive parents have traveled to Korea to pick up their children. Both of my children were escorted to New York City, so I have never had a chance to visit their birth country.

I flew down to John F. Kennedy airport on July 4, 2013. Many of the trip participants were from the NYC area, but a few of us came from other areas of the country. The flight to Korea was at 1 PM, and our group was meeting at 10 AM. I needed to come down the night before to make sure I was on time.

Honestly, I am not much a traveler. On most trips I have relied on my husband to work out the details of navigating and transportation. I was a little nervous to be solo, but I encountered no difficulties. I arrived around 5 PM and was able to take the AirTrain directly to my hotel. I settled in for a night of uninterrupted sleep, take out, and Korean drama.

Since I was nervous, I ended up checking out and going to the JFK Asiana terminal several hours early. I just parked myself and engaged in a lot of people watching. Soon the other trip participants arrived. We chatted and checked in our bags.

The flight was long, but not fully unpleasant. They feed you a lot, so I had several Korean meals and watched some movies. My biggest challenge was being seated in the middle of a row. I am a wiggly person who frequently has to go to the bathroom! The man next to me slept a lot (except when I was waking him up!).  I slept a little bit on the plane, which was helpful later on.

We arrived an Incheon Airport. The airport is nice, clean, and was noticeably quiet. There was not the usual clamor of luggage, feet on the floor, and loud voices. We quickly made our way through customs and were on our way.

We had the first of many excellent meals (although I promise not to talk about the food in every post!). The drive into Seoul was interesting. There is a lot of traffic in Seoul, all the time. As we drove in I noticed that there was a lot of farming areas kind of mixed in with urban areas. In the US farming areas are usually located away from city areas. Here I could see family fields and greenhouse within view of skyscrapers.

On the bus ride we are introduced to the president of InKAS and her daughter. They told an amazing story of the many generations of their family who dedicated themselves to helping children in Korea. I will write more about InKAS later, since I was so amazed at the support they offer adult adoptees who chose to visit or live in Korea.

We arrived a Youngsan Camp. It was called a "camp" but it was more like a hotel or retreat facility. We visited an English language program, run by InKAS volunteers for children from impoverished families. Children who come from economically challenged families, or from families whose parents must work long hours, do not often have a chance to learn much English. The camp is new and, at the current time, the children only attend for one night. They had a performance of the songs they learned (Isty Bitsy Spider, Chicken Dance).

I was pretty tired at this point! Although I could not get wifi, I used my cellular plan to FaceTime Pete. I  wanted to let him know that I arrived and had no difficulties during the trip.

Unfortunately in the morning I battled with a migraine, but it passed quickly. We packed up and were on to our next adventure - the DMZ.

Jeju Island

Wel...I did not do that well keeping up with my research! Things have been very, very busy. School finished up. It has taken me quite a while to get things organized, packed, and my family's schedule all set for the time I will be gone. 

Here is some information I pulled of the website for Jeju Island. We will be there for two nights. Lots of things are planned! Here is brief description of each of them.


Jungmun Beach

This beach is surrounded by steep cliffs that create a cozy and romantic atmosphere. It is situated within the Jungmun Tourism Complex where visitors can enjoy summer vacation by taking advantage of a variety of entertainment and recreation facilities. You can enjoy wind surfing, water skiing, parasailing and swimming in the indigo sea. You can feel the soft wind on a sandy hill and listen to the waves rolling into the rocks. The Ministry of Land, Transport and Maritime Affairs selected Jungmun Seakdal Beach as the best beach in Korea under the four categories of management, water quality control, scenery and safety. After sea bathing, it would be great to take a slow walk through the gardens of famous hotels nearby.


Jeju Folklore and Natural History Museum

The display all the way from the formation of Jeju Island to the ecology of its natural resources and its unique culture, to help visitors to understand the island and people better. When you enter from the left, the first thing you will see is the natural history exhibition room. Here, the history of the formation of Jeju Island is shown through geological models and samples of mushrooms and citrus. Folk exhibition room No. 1 displays materials on the rite of passage from birth to death of the Jeju natives and folk exhibition room No. 2 shows materials that represent the traditional ways of living, including those used by the haenyeo (diving women), and farming and hunting tools. You can also see scenes of Jeju people making their living in the traditional ways. The outdoor exhibition space holds agricultural stone tools such as a millstone and a Jeongjuseok (gate stone), and other traditional cultural objects.

Youngdaum: Dragon Head Rock

Yong means 'dragon', du means 'head' and 'am' means 'rock. Yongduam was thus named as it resembles a dragon’s head. The best-known legend has it that an envoy that the Dragon King sent was looking for a medicinal plant on Mount Halla when the mountain god shot an arrow at him, and he fell and died. If you walk down the stairs to the east, you can sample fresh seafood that the haenyeo (female divers) has just caught, such as octopus, sea cucumber and sea squirt. You won’t be tempted by other food in any luxurious restaurant after you have eaten fresh seafood while sitting on a rock by the ocean lulled by gentle waves. When the waves surge over Dragon Head Rock, it looks as if the dragon is about to ascend to heaven.

Seongeup Folk Village

The Seongeup Folk Village has preserved and recreated a traditional Jeju town as it used to be. The thatched roofs weighed down with rocks to prevent them being blown away by the wind are particularly memorable. The village, where Ilgwanheon, a district office where the Jeonguihyungam (mayor) worked during the Choseon Dynasty, and castle built during the reign of King Sejong are preserved, is designated as Important Folk Material No. 188.

Haenyeo (Woman Diver)

The number of women divers who were once a symbol of the strong Jeju women is dramatically decreasing, largely because women have more job opportunities because of more education and a more diverse industrial structure. In addition, more and more women are avoiding the backbreaking labor in the ocean. Mothers do not want their daughters to follow in their footsteps into this strenuous and inherently dangerous profession.

The decrease in women divers entails a reduction in the number of fishermen. According to the survey by the Jeju Provincial Government in 2006, among the total of 5,406 women divers (as of the late of last year), those over 60 accounted for 65.8% (3,557), those between 50 and 59 24.6% (1,331), and those between 30 and 39 9.6% (518), and those below 30 were merely 2. This demonstrates that women divers are decreasing in number. This is in marked contrast to the 1970s when the percentage of divers over 60 was 4.6%.

Seongsan Ilchulbong (Sunrise Peak)

99 rocky peaks surround the crater like a fortress and the gentle southern slope connected to water is a lush grassland. On the grassland at the entrance of Sunrise Peak, you can enjoy horseback riding. Breathtaking scenic views while taking a rest in the middle of climbing up the peak such as Mount Halla, the deep blues of the ocean, the multi-colored coast line, and the picturesque neighboring villages will become unforgettable memories.

The Road of Mystery

The Jeju Mysterious Road, also known as Dokkaebi Road, lies on a hill at the foot of a mountain, and connects two major highways on Jejudo Island. It has earned its name, as objects and liquid appear to roll and flow up the hill instead of down, when, in fact, such image of gravity defiance is an optical illusion rendered by the seemingly high surroundings.

Halla Arboretum   

Halla Arboretum (한라수목원) was established for the study and the preservation of natural environment. Opened in December 1993, Gwangioreum there are 909 kinds of native trees and subtropical plants exhibited here. In the gardens there are 506 kinds of trees and 90 kinds of plants, and in the greenhouse there is the Subtropical Plant Hall (105 kinds) and the Native Plant Hall (103 kinds) with a total of 208 types of plants. There are 2,722 stumps of endangered and rare plants such as the Michelia Compressa and Euchresta Japonica, and the Chloranthus Glaber that only grows at Cheonjiyeon. At Halla Arboretum you can meet the four-season flower forest, colorful forests, and the beautiful seasons of mother nature at Halla.

Hongik Child Welfare

http://www.jejuweekly.com/news/articleView.html?idxno=667

I have not been able to find much on this agency. I finally came across this article describing it. We are also visiting a location called "ChangAhm Children's Rehabilitation Home," but I have not been able to find any information on this.

Honggik is an orphanage, so I am imagining it is going to be a very emotional visit for everyone on the trip.

Home Stay and Ewha Woman's University

At the end of our second day we will be meeting up with our host families. I am very excited about this part of the trip. I think it is a unique part of this trip that, otherwise, I would never have the opportunity to do. In the future, when we go to Korea as a family, we will most likely go with a group. We won't have a chance to get to experience a stay in a Korean household.

We meet at Shinchon Hotel. I have searched on the internet several times for more information. I can't tell if this is the name of a hotel (or hotel chain) or the area in which it is located.

On June 8th will be an orientation meeting down in Closter, NJ. Pete and I will be driving down so I can attend. At that time we will learn more about the trip and staying with our host families. I am sure we will get information on what to expect...and proper Korean manners! I am concerned about being unintentionally rude to the family I am staying with, although I am sure they will be forgiving given the fact that this is my first visit to Korea.

On the 3rd day we will be having breakfast at a hotel and then going to Ewha Woman's College. My Korean language teacher told me that this is a very prestigious college. They have programs for Korean students and international students. We will be meeting with the Dean of the Education Department.

The colleges education department was started in 1945. In 1998, 2003, and 2010 the department was rated as being the "most competitive school." Within the department, students can focus on Early Childhood, Elementary, Special Education, Educational Technology, English Education, Social Studies, Korean Education, Science, and Mathematics.

Their website indicates that they were one of the first colleges to offer campus tours lead by Korean students. They report that not only interested high school students come for tours, but international students, international celebrities, and professors/educators from abroad. The description of the campus and campus life sounds very much like American colleges. They have residence halls, cafeterias, and academic buildings.

I imagine that meeting with the Dean of Education is to get an overview of Korean education. Before going on the trip, I need to do some more learning about the structure of Korean schools. I do know it is a very competitive environment with much emphasis placed on getting into a good college.

We will have lunch at the college. After lunch, it appears that our group splits up. Some of us will go visit schools and some will go visit adoption agencies. I fit in both categories!!!

Although I really want to learn about the education system, I cannot pass up the opportunity to visit Eastern Social Welfare. Both of my children spent time in Eastern Babies Home and I am eager to see where they spent the early part of their lives. More about that later!

Pahjoo Haelee Village Tour (Heyri)

Below is an excerpt from the website (http://www.heyri.net/blog/). Unfortunately, most of the website is in Korean, so I can't read much of it! What is in English describes a "cultural art village" which houses both traditional and contemporary forms of art, artitechure, and performances. 

Our itinerary says we will be doing Korean rice paper art in the morning and touring the Pahjoo Haelee Village in the afternoon.

On the website, it says that Heyri is a placing for creating art, exhibitions, performances, festivals, cultural education, creative discussion, and a place for artists in residence. There are thirty small to medium sized museums, featuring folk instruments, toys, butterflies, film posters, paintings, and more. There are 6 art galleries featuring various types of art, including Korean ceramics. There are several music halls and recital chambers. There are two drama theaters for plays and teaching acting.  There is a movie theatre, an international folk film museum, and a film school for promising film makers. There are guest houses, book stores, meeting rooms, and shops. 

It looks like the majority of the building and planning took place between 1999 to 2006. The website suggests that much emphasis was placed on the environment and creating architecture that reflected nature and the beautiful surroundings. 

The loveliest village on the earth all artists are dreaming.

Heyri heads for the art village that communicates the culture with the variety genre in the one space. At first, this village was designed as ‘the book village' linked Paju Publishing Town in 1997. But in the processing of the project, lots of artists in various cultural fields joined it. And the concept of the village was expanded to 'cultural art village'.

Now above three hundred seventy members: writers, artists, cineastes, architects, and musicians are building their artistic spaces, houses, work rooms, museums, galleries. Heyri, the name of village, is quoted from the title "the Sound of Heyri" which is the traditional farming song at Paju province in Gyeonggi-do.

Youngsan Camp

Our first stop will be at Youngsan Camp. From reading on-line it appears to be a large youth facility where groups can go for various types of team building and trainings. Their motto emphasizes trust, love, faith, and healthy living. It offers various physical activities such as high ropes course, a low ropes course, and a "challenge tower." The tower offers individual challenges, team challenges, rock walls, and rappelling. I don't see time on the itinerary to participate in any of these things - and I must say I am glad! They all looked a little high in the air for me.

The camp is large. The website said it can have over 1,000 trainees at one time. It is about an hour away from Seoul. There is "Kyung-Ki" village, a place for intensive training in English. It is adjacent to "Heiri Village," which is the village of the arts. I will write more about Heiri Village later, since it appears we will be visiting.

It offers a full camp schedule for elementary, middle, high school, and adults (leadership) program. Some of the programs appear to be religiously based, and some do not. The schedules include participating in various units. The units are:

Culture and Art (tap dance, line dance, hip-hop dance, and cheering)
Leisure Sports (Thai kicking, snake board, t-ball, rappelling, go-carts, climbing, and floor ball)
Traditional Culture (paper crafts, swordsmanship, Tai-Chi)
Nature Observation (candle making, iron drawing, nature games)
Self-Development (challenge courses, sign language, group discussion, writing)
Game Culture (rec-dance, cultural festival)